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Travel

No. 140

3 min read

The night train is back. Is it any good?

New sleeper services promise to replace short flights. We took four of them to find out what a night on the rails is really like.

MB

Marco Bellin

Travel editor

A tram at a station at night

Filed under

Ten years ago the night train looked finished. Routes were cut, carriages were old and budget airlines were cheaper. Now new sleeper services are launching across the continent, and they are selling out on popular nights.

We booked four different routes, from the cheapest seat to a private cabin, to see whether a night on the rails can really replace a short flight.

The good

You fall asleep in one country and wake up to coffee in another.

You skip the airport security queue and the early-morning taxi. You save a night in a hotel. And there is something genuinely lovely about watching towns slide past in the dusk with a paper cup of tea.

Green trees and bushes seen from a moving train

The less good

  • Couchettes are narrow and shared, so bring earplugs.

  • Delays of an hour or two are common on long cross-border routes.

  • Breakfast ranges from very good to a sealed croissant.

  • Cabins sell out months ahead for summer weekends.

Is it worth it?

For journeys of eight to twelve hours, yes, especially if you would otherwise need a hotel. For shorter trips the fast day train is usually easier. Book a private cabin at least once; it changes the experience completely.

Our tip

Choose a train that arrives after 8am. You get a full night’s sleep, and you step out into a city that is already awake.

How to book

Night trains are often sold by the operator rather than through the main rail booking sites, and prices change with demand like flights. Booking as soon as tickets go on sale, usually three to six months ahead, gives the widest choice of cabins.

A couchette is a shared compartment with four or six bunks and is the cheapest option. A sleeper cabin has one to three proper beds and often a washbasin. Some newer trains have small private pods, which sit in between on price and are good for solo travellers.

Whichever you choose, pack a small bag for the night with water, a layer and your toothbrush, and leave the big bag in the rack. You will be glad of it at 6am when the conductor knocks with breakfast.

“You fall asleep in one country and wake up to coffee in another.”

— Marco Bellin

MB

Written by

Marco Bellin

Marco has not owned a car for twelve years. He writes about trains, ferries and the towns in between.

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